🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. However, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary honour.